To start with face washes are superior to most bar soaps since they are more pH balanced and with multiple added benefits. Soaps generally have harsher surfactants – the key ingredient responsible for removing dirt, oil and germs – than face washes and have alkaline pH.
3 things to consider before choosing
Skin type – Facial skin types could be oily, combination or dry and any category skin could be also sensitive. Remember that skin type can vary for a same person over menstrual cycle, seasons, with skin treatments and age.
Underlying skin issues – Common facial skin problems that are important while choosing any skin care product are pimples, seborrheic dermatitis, allergies, sun sensitivity and pigmentation problems.
Facial treatments – anti acne creams, chemical peels, LASERs and other skin procedure can change skin type temporarily hence specific cleansing methods and products should be adopted while on treatment and immediately post procedure.
Check the ingredients
One thing to remember while stressing over the ‘chemicals’ and actives your face wash has is that, face washes stay in our face for hardly seconds. While the key ingredients should be balanced to suit individual face and needs, don’t be misled by the touted skin nourishing, lightening and numerous other benefits or the harmfulness of chemicals like sulphates, preservatives and such.
AHAs and BHAs
People with oily and acne prone skin can look for ingredients like salicylic acid, mandelic acid and glycolic acid. These are Alpha and beta hydroxy acids which are used in peels albeit in lesser concentration in face washes. They can unclog pores, reduce oiliness, loosen dead cells and help in skin exfoliation and are proven to act even in short contact of less than a minute. But those already on treatments, especially retinoids for acne, have to keep in mind that these face washes can add to the dryness. Also those with dry skin should never use exfoliating face washes as it can irritate skin further.
Surfactants
Commonly used are SLS (sodium lauryl/laureth sulphate) or other such sulphate based surfactants. Contrary to great hype over ‘sulphate free’ products, sulphates are excellent cleansers, cheaper and used in more than 90% face washes, soaps and shampoos. In isolation they do strip skin of moisture while removing oil producing a ‘squeaky clean’ effect which is not desirable. Certain products have derivatives of SLS like SLsarcosinate or add on gentler surfactants like cocamidopropyl betaine, cocamide MEA and moisture retaining ingredients like trehalose and other sugars to counteract harshness of sulphates. Don’t go by sulphate free tag blindly as many products end up adding that under different names, but rather look for addition of these. Unless you have very dry or sensitive skin you can choose these for daily cleansing.
Cetyl and stearyl alcohol
For very dry and sensitive skin or post skin procedures non foaming soap free lipid cleansers containing cetyl and stearyl alcohol can help protect skin moisture.
Other ingredients for added benefits
Benzoyl peroxide – effective for pimple prone skin. Better to use by prescription.
Glutathione, kojic acid, Vit C, liquorice, nicotinamide – skin lightening ingredients. But one should understand that short contact forms in face washes may not be very effective in isolation.
Triclosan – anti bacterial. Only for those with repeated skin infections. Antibacterial face washes and soaps should not be used regularly as they can also wipe out the protective skin flora – a colony of microbes which protect skin from harmful germs.
D -panthenol, glycerin, aloe extracts, fatty acids like palmitic and stearic acid, ceramides, hyaluronic acid – moisturising ingredients to offset the effects of surfactants and to hydrate skin. Suitable for daily and gentle cleansing.
Botanicals – Multiple plant extracts like turmeric extract, neem extract, chamomile extract and oils like tea tree oil are added for uniqueness and extra benefits. But the real world benefit of these vary, as not all can penetrate skin and act as needed within a short contact time.
How to cleanse?
Its best to limit daily soap cleansing to twice a day and exfoliation to alternate day to once a week depending upon its strength. Avoid scrubs with abrasive particles as they can cause skin damage. Its also a good idea to alternate exfoliating face washes and gentle non drying face washes to prevent skin damage and balance hydration and deep cleansing. You can always consult a qualified dermatologist for customised skin care products.
Signs that you are over cleansing or your face wash does not suit you
Your skin feel tight or stretched after drying. Skin looks flaky at some areas with tiny white flakes on scratching or rubbing. There is too much oil production within an hour of washing. Skin feels sensitive, stinging or burning as such or on application of products. These should tell you that either your face wash is harsher – harsher surfactant, exfoliants or less moisture retaining ingredients or you are cleansing and exfoliating too much. Either way you have to tone down and use moisturisers for added help.
