During my consultation most patients mention about a product they tried for their skin issue before coming to me. Even my doctor friends ask my help to choose an online brand for their skin problems. I admit that I am a huge fan of cosmetics and skin care products (cosmeceuticals) myself and try out new products both from pharmaceutical brands I prescribe and from online stores.
But these questions should flash before you when you decide to invest in a skin care serum or cream.
So, coming to the first question
Will your skin issue improve with a skin care product?
Apart from skin care products like moisturisers, sunscreens and face washes, some products actively make a change in your skin structure like increasing cell renewal, decreasing melanin production or increasing collagen synthesis. This can lead to smoother, even toned and healthier looking skin. These products are called cosmeceuticals.
What are cosmeceuticals and who can use it?
Cosmeceuticals are just upgraded cosmetics. When compared to an inert cosmetic like a foundation or lipstick, they have an active ingredient which can have certain beneficial physiological effects in skin. They are meant for routine skin care and maintaining skin at its healthy best.
That said, skin has to be naturally healthy to some extent to derive some benefit from them. They are not prescription strength products to cure skin issues. You can get the greatest benefits from them in these aspects
- Anti-aging – especially using in younger age like late 20s or 30s for prevention of aging signs
- Uneven skin tone – suntan and unevenness due to poor skin care
- Moderate Oiliness
- Skin hydration for normal to dry skin
- Dull skin due to less exfoliation
Who it’s not for?
If you are in this category then the results are going to be disappointing. Most of the bad reviews to a product are given by people with these conditions choosing a skin care product expecting clear skin.
- Active pimples with excessive oiliness or post acne blemishes or scars
- Diseases which can lead to pigmented patches on face like melasma, acanthosis nigricans, pigmented dermatitis, seborrheic melanosis
- Damaged skin barrier and sensitive skins prone to product intolerances and allergies
- Advanced aging like baggy/droopy eyes, sagging cheeks, wrinkles and thick rough skin
- Freckles, sun spots, blotchiness and small skin tags
You need a qualified dermatologist for treating these and keeping them under control. You can get opinion on choosing a product for maintenance after getting treated. Expecting a salicylic acid serum or tea tree oil/ neem oil to cure your acne is not going to work. Also, its best to know your skin type before choosing any skin care product.
What is the right ingredient/product type for your skin issue?
Cosmeceuticals are becoming very popular in Indian market and many well-known and new brands are equally releasing new products every month. Ingredients like niacinamide, retinol, vitamin C and alpha hydroxy acids, which were previously prescribed by dermatologists, are now freely available in market. Along with them are a flood of new ingredients, mostly plant extracts and essential oils, which claim to have a unique targeted action in skin.
For regular exfoliation – alpha hydroxy acids like glycolic acid, salicylic acid for oily skin, lactic or mandelic acid for sensitive skin
Skin lightening – creams with kojic acid, arbutin, licorice extracts, soy extract. niacinamide for acne prone skin, blotchy red skin. Vitamin C for maintaining even skin tone and daily defense from UV rays and free radicals
Skin hydration/plumping – hyaluronic acid, panthenol, lightweight moisturisers with plant extracts like shea, coconut, aloe etc
Oily skin/anti inflammatory – salicylic acid, tea tree oil, witch hazel
Anti aging – retinol, peptides, antioxidant plant extracts like tea extract, coffeeberry extract, soy extract
I have detailed about the effects of various ingredients in skin serums in this post and specifically about plant extracts and botanicals in this post. So, you can learn how each product works and choose one for you.
Will your brand actually work and make a difference?
This is the toughest part. Because you have determined your skin type, identified your needs and chosen an ingredient/product type. But, will that product work as it claims? A lot changes between label on a product and real benefits on skin. When I prescribe a vitamin C serum or retinol serum some patients say that they have tried some brands and it does not work. They say they got it from Amazon and they are latest but economical skin care brands with good reviews. I want you know certain things about branding here.
- The regulations to manufacture a cosmeceutical is very lax when compared to a pharmaceutical cream. It’s not necessary for a company to include in label all ingredients along with concentration of each or prove that it contains the mentioned concentration. Most new brands just import products from China and label and market it. Almost half of the serums are from the same generic manufacturer with different labels. There is going to be no difference switching between them and trying.
- Flood of questionable new ingredients added to a product to make it unique. There is no proof of efficacy of these. They add to the cost or become the main marketing material to distinguish that brand. Always make sure the list has at least one or two proven ingredients.
- Influencers in social media – they can popularise any skin care routine or product and people believe them. Even reviews in shopping websites are mostly by them. Understand that they get paid for it. They do not know about the product any more than you do. They are not experts just because they review products or have more followers. And you know your skin type and issues better.
My advice here is if you want try a specific ingredient try a trusted skin care brand or a pharmaceutical brand first even if it is expensive. Once you know that ingredient works for you, you can either stick to it or choose a newer or less expensive brand with similar composition and try it. If that works, good then you have found a product for regular use. If not, you know whom to blame, the ingredient or the brand. You can further experiment with other such ingredients in same way.
As I always say, be informed and choose the best for your skin.
