I got a call from one of my medico friends asking about collagen supplements. Her cousin wanted to try that for her black patches and dull skin. She asked my opinion on whether it was useful. While it surely was not going help black patches in isolation without addressing the cause for pigmentation and treating that, oral collagen supplements are currently being marketed as a miracle anti-aging skin solution. I wanted to make facts clear on what to actually expect.
What is collagen?
Collagen is the main structural protein of the different tissues like ligaments, bones, blood vessels and skin, providing rigidity and integrity to its structure. It is the major constituent in the skin matrix, together with elastin and hyaluronic acid. Of more than the 20 types of collagen present in our body, skin has predominantly type I and III. Collagen is the scaffold for all other skin components and keeps the skin taut and firm. It helps in maintaining stability of skin structure and hastens wound healing.
Young skin is made by 80% type I collagen and about 15% collagen type III. With age, our ability to replenish collagen naturally decreases (about 1.5% every year). Also, the fibres become thicker and much shorter. So, as skin ages, there is reduction in dermal collagen in addition to reduction in elastin, matrix proteins and hyaluronic acid. When the reserve becomes low it leads to sagging, wrinkles, sallowness and dehydrated skin. So, it seems like an attractive option to go for collagen supplements to replenish what is lost. Let’s see what research has to say about that.
What do collagen supplements contain?
They contain collagen derived from marine organisms or animals (no vegetarian source) in hydrolyzed form – cut to smaller chains (peptides) for better absorption rather than the whole molecule which is bigger. The amino acids glycine, hydroxyproline and proline are more compared to others as collagen chain is made up of these. In addition, most supplements also contain certain amounts of vitamin C, minerals like zinc and copper which are co factors in collagen synthesis, hyaluronic acid and some anti-oxidants.
What happens after you take your collagen shot
Even though research has proven some benefits with oral collagen supplements, the mechanism is not as straightforward as you think. Oral collagen cannot directly reach skin and completely replace what is lost (just like the oily foods cannot directly reach skin and contribute to oiliness. That’s another myth). There is a huge barrier in the form of gut wall and its enzymes which process and breakdown what we eat to basic sugars, amino acids and lipids before it hits the bloodstream. The peptides in collagen hydrolysate made up of strings of individual amino acids is shred to amino acids and few smaller di or tripeptides to be reassembled in the dermis.
But there is another major way the collagen supplement is helping dermal collagen synthesis. These peptides are important signal proteins. Skin is constantly breaking down its collagen and rebuilding it from our birth. The broken fragments (peptides) themselves attract and trigger fibroblasts – the cells which produce collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid (basically the tissue matrix), to produce newer collagen and replenish reserve. The peptides in collagen supplement can mimic breakdown peptides and stimulate fibroblasts to kickstart more natural collagen production. Peptide based skin and hair serums/creams also utilize this method to upregulate natural beneficial functions.
What research says
I must admit I initially dismissed collagen supplements like collagen skin creams as a marketing gimmick. Skin has collagen and aging leads to its loss so replacing it seems to be an attractive marketing material. But physiology is never that simple. Collagen skin creams cannot contribute to skin collagen, it can just hold some water making skin feel firmer in the short term (just like any other humectant-based moisturiser or hyaluronic acid serum). But I should say oral collagen does have some proven benefits backed by clinical research. But there are contradictory evidences too and some positive researches are backed by companies marketing the product itself, so more large-scale clinical studies are welcome. Most studies typically compared skin firmness, hydration and wrinkle score between those who took collagen vs placebo for a period of 2 to 6 months. Few takeaway points are
- It was proven by tagging the peptides with labels and following their course in body, that peptide levels increased in blood by 12 hours and reached skin and remained high from 3 to 14 days. So, it did reach skin defying all odds of getting shred and lost.
- There was increase in fibroblast function in skin by tissue studies when compared with vs without supplement
- There was improvement in hydration, elasticity and wrinkles in most studies but the benefits were marginal varying from 10% to 30%
- Addition of vitamins and antioxidants to collagen did not seem to enhance its benefits clinically. But added anti-oxidants improved cell markers of damage compared to collagen alone.
I should this mention these two points too
- The skin hydration and other changes were significant only in above 30- 35 age group in some studies.
- When tested one month after stopping supplements new collagen synthesis had started to decline.
The verdict
Are collagen supplements beneficial?
Yes. But a regular balanced diet will also cover you much more, in terms of protection from much younger age lasting all your life, by supplying right components to all the right places. It is cheaper, with numerous added benefits to skin health and helps all other systems too.
Does it have any side effects?
Not much, if you are completely healthy with no compromised organ systems. Otherwise consult your doctor.
Is it enough to prevent skin ageing?
Absolutely not. It can provide the right environment to delay ((I say delay because nothing can completely arrest it) certain effects of skin ageing like loss of suppleness due to collagen loss to some extent. But it does not address the epidermal effects like roughness, pigmentation and uneven skin tone. It does not completely compensate hyaluronic acid which is a master skin plumper by retaining water. So, it is just one part of a skin care routine needed to lessen effects of skin ageing along with sunscreen, creams, skin care, lifestyle changes and other specialized treatments.
I hope you can make an informed decision based on this. Most of the results in studies are based on testing in tissues/lab animals in cellular level. The results in clinical studies were marginal. In reality the visible differences could be very subtle, even with all the extra collagen production. It may not be enough to lift up your sagging cheeks or eyebags or even prevent sagging altogether. Don’t expect miracles but rather choose it for its supplemental benefits. Even if you do choose to take collagen supplements, plan to maintain the results with a good diet and lifestyle for long lasting benefits.
Sibilla S et al: An overview of the beneficial effects of hydrolysed collagen as a nutraceutical on skin properties: Scientific background and clinical studies. Open Nutraceuticals J 2015;8:29–42. https://www.semanticscholar.org/paper/An-Overview-of-the-Beneficial-Effects-of-Hydrolysed-Sibilla-Godfrey/666718c2d1ec539560350877bfe8212ba37ee2ae
